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HERBERT H. P.

Reminiscences of Gnowangerup 1902 - 1913

“Clear Hills” was our destination and, after several weeks of cramped sea travel, we had arrived at Albany where we stayed til the next train departed from Broomehill.
The “Clear Hills” locality was known as Condinup. The journey from Broomehill to “Clear Hills” was made in a horse-drawn wagon. It was June 1902 when we arrived – another family joining a small band of pioneers in this vast and sparsely settled part of W.A.

Prior to leaving South Australia, my father (both named Uriah Herbert) had purchased this property from C.A. Armstrong, who had previously bought it from the Searle family. The property is now owned by C. E. Cockram and Son.

  

YOUGENUP ROAD, GNOWANGERUP 1912     LOOKING SOUTH                #1

Neighbours and settlers in those days were few and literally far between. Those nearest us were the Richards family at “Christmas Farm” (now owned by V.L. Garnett). Other settlers within horse-travelling distance were Mr Abel Richards at “Cambellup” Mr R.R. Burridge at “Glengarry” (the property was being leased by Mr. R.R. Burridge from Mr Melville Moir). Close by at “Strathaven” were W.C. and Alex Ball. Mr. Bill Stone had taken up land and was farming near “Linden”. Two Jimmies, James Beard and James Quinn, were living in the area of the present Gnowangerup townsite. Further South, near “Cherilillup”, there lived a grand old gentleman, Mr Wagstaff. To the north, near “Telyarup” Mr. Allan Whyatt and family had settled. Pallinup, at that time was a 22,000 acre estate, leased by J.F. Hassell of Kendenup and managed by Mr. Tom McGuire. The Wray family had settled at “Round Farm” and the Searles near the present Toolbrunup Siding. On “Beeginup” were the Gaylors. The property was owned by Mr. R.R. Burridge. “Beeginup” at one time in the sandalwood days was a Roadside Inn and Mr. Burridge had a license to sell liquor. The Inn was mostly used by the teamsters carting sandalwood to Albany as there was no Great Southern Railway then. The “Beeginup” property is today owned by Mr. C. Taylor. The only shopping centre for these settlers was Broomehill, vehicles for travel having little variation in style – they ranged from spring carts to buggies.
MAIL SERVICE
We had a mail service, from Albany to Broomehill. The “mail man”, riding one horse and leading another, would leave Albany on Monday mornings to follow a route through the Porongorups, Chester Pass, Wooliganup, Sandalwood, Mungup, Glengarry, Clear Hills, Pallinup and then to Broomehill and return to Albany the following week along the same route.”Clear Hill” was the post office for the settlers I have mentioned. Even though it is sixty or more years ago, traces of the old mail route are still visible to those who know where to find it. Farming equipment and methods were very primitive. A three furrow plough, hand sown wheat and a set of harrows for the seeding season were all part of the process.
EDUCATION
Education was practically out of the question as the nearest school was situated at Broomehill.
My Grandmother, a lady of spirit and determination decided a move should be made for a school to be erected for the benefit of the children of the settlers. Her only hope appeared to be an interview with a member of Parliament, and never thwarted, she set out in her spring cart for a trip to Katanning to see Mr. F.C. Piesse, M.P. This resulted in the erection of a school, the appointment of a teacher (Mr. Robert Armstrong), and it was a going concern in 1905 with the attendance of some 20 pupils. The school, situated at Nigalup Reserve, was reasonably central for all concerned. Nigalup being 3 miles west of Clear Hills was already a well-knownland mark in W.A., noted for its plentiful supply of fresh water, which welled from the river bed. Mr. Reg Gillespie is the present owner of the old Nigalup acres.
The course of our interests and present way of life occasionally permits some of Nigalup’s first pupils to talk of the days of their youth. Those that are still in the district are W.R. Wray, John Burridge, Arthur Whyatt, myself and brothers.
With the school in operation the settlers met more frequently, and formed sporting bodies, such as cricket and football.
 

YOUGENUP ROAD, GNOWANGERUP 1912   LOOKING NORTH             #2
 

NEW SETTLERS
Dances were held in the new school and more and more settlers were welcomed to join social events so recently commenced. A.Aylmore and family settled in Yougenup House, W Porteous at the present farm of Mr. Vin McDonald, the Stutley family at Rockview, A. Allardyce at “Anglessy”, George and Andy McWheeney near Yougenup, Mr and Mrs Geo. Hams, Jim Clancy and family (their property now owned by Mr. R. Wise), Mr Jim Garnett and family, Sam Jenkins, the Formby Brothers selected at Cherililup, and Mr. A.R. Richardson bought the property of W.C. and A. Ball.
ELECTION
In 1906, there occurred an event well to be remembered, a vacancy for the East Ward in the Broomehill Road Board. An election was held, the polling booth being at Clear Hills. Mr George Eastwood acted as returning officer. Mr. R.R. Burridge nominated and was elected and so we felt another step had been taken in the direction of progress. Two gentlemen named Arnott and Wheeler bought “Martinup” – which was being leased by J. F. Hassell – and settled. Closely following these two, was Mr. Michael Corbett. Mr. Corbett bought “Telyarup”, where he built a very fine homestead now owned by Mr W. N. Smith and Sons.
RAILWAY
Mr.. Corbett was an interested and progressive gentleman and played an important role with Mr. Allardyce and with Mr. Andrew McDonald in pressing successfully for a railway, connecting Broomehill, Tambellup, Gnowangerup and Ongerup. In 1907, my grandfather and father sold “Clear Hills” to Mr. N.P. Davis and purchased the land then known as “Twolganup” and known today as “Cwn-Avon” or Jim Chappell’s. 1908-1901 saw an ever increasing number of settlers arrive and Gnowangerup was soon to open its first school: Miss Hunt being the first teacher. A small village was shaping. It was at this time the first blacksmiths, James Bell and Son, set up their business. What a boon for the farmers! Instead of travelling to Broomehill for repairs on vehicles and equipment, they could now have it done in Gnowangerup.
1
909 was the beginning of negotiations of the aforementioned railway. Mr. A Dartnell was appointed surveyor and work commenced in 1910. The building of a railway necessitated many employees, so the number of inhabitants rose considerably. Steam trains, of course, required water, resulting in the sinking of several Government dams, which meant more workers.
NEW BUSINESSES
Two banks, The National Bank and the Bank of Australasia, opened their doors simultaneously. The National Bank was built of galvanised iron and situated where the Co-op depot now stands. This bank also served as a post office and was managed by Mr. P. Hughes. Mr. John Caldow set up a small shop and eating house, named “The Bon Ton”, on the block of land now occupied by G.S. Hendry & Co. The Stock and Trading Co., managed by Mr. Geo Parry, commenced business where Stewart & Sons now have their shop.
Two Boarding houses were built, and both are still standing; the smaller being the present residence of Mr. and Mrs. Gorman, and the other now known as “jena House”, was owned by Mr. and Mrs. Tom Head. Mr. Jack Randall opened a boot shop, Mr. Bob Richard’s business now stands in its place.
Entertainment was of one’s own making, and with so many inhabitants, parties and picnics were inspired. I can well remember one particular picnic which was arranged to be held on Jimmy Quinn’s paddock. Invitations weren’t necessary, and every single inhabitant was expected to be there. The events scheduled for the day being general athletics, log chopping, horse racing, etc. and a grand time was had by all.
One sporting gentleman bought a supply of “Johnny Walker” which he sold at a moderate price of sixpence per glass. From a young onlooker’s point of view it was well received, but alas, even in those days news spread rapidly, and resulted in a police representative from Broomehill eventually visiting the scene of the merrymakers enquiring as to the name of the “barman” of the previous week. The ability to keep a secret was one of the pioneer’s virtues, and this one certainly wasn’t divulged.
"PUB” BUILT
For an enterprising publican, here was a grand opening for business, so in 1911 a hotel was built; Mr. Bobby Norris took over as first proprietor. All building materials and provisions were carted from the railwayt at Broomehill by horse and wagon. Some of the well-known teamsters, J. Black, Sam Jenkins and Don McDonald participated in this project. The opening night of the new hotel took place in November. Mr Norris informed me, that on that night, the takings were 500 sovereigns.  Land was being cleared in leaps and bounds and these programs attracted contractors of reliability, those most remembered for their efficiency being Peter Bye, G. Searle, McGinty and Dutchy. The change from utter remoteness to an established centre in such a few short years seemed fantastic to us. The cogs of civilisation were turning continuously forwards, and with so much activity there was little time for reflections, but many plans for the future. We were now privileged with a tailor, a newsagency and an Agricultural Hall. Mr. Norman Freak was our first newsagent,and opened his shop where the present one is situated. The tailor set up business where the Economic store now stands. The Agricultural Hall, needless to say, was a great asset to the community. In 1912, the first police officer to be stationed at Gnowangerup, arrived – his place of abode being a tent as the police station and residence were yet to be erected. On one occasion which necessitated an arrest, the officer didn’t have any choice other than chain his prisoner to a tree. This indignant breaker of the law created many humorous instances by walking on all fours and barking like a dog at inquisitive passers by, including the officer. Very soon we had a butchers shop, Mr. Len Tallents and Mr. C. Stutley were the proprietors.

The railway, which was completed in 1913, and no doubt called for celebrations, being in the form of a race meeting scheduled for the 10th April. Unfortunately weather conditions shattered all plans and expectations. Rain began to fall heavily on the eve of the meeting and didn’t abate for several days, which resulted in the postponement of events. 7 inches of rain fell, marooning jockeys, bookmakers and trainers at the hotel, where they were isolated for a week.
1913 ON
From 1913 on, I think many people around Gnowangerup would know as much as I, so I will conclude here.

 

 

 

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References:                 Article:      H. P. Herbert

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Copyright : Gordon Freegard 2024